Azwiho kuba ari we wazanye ikanzu izwi nka ‘little black dress”, udukoti two kwambara tw’abagore, umubavu uzwi nka Chanel No 5 n’ibindi, akaba yarashimiwe guhindura imyambarire igezweho y’umugore wo mu kinyejana cya 20, aho zina rye rikunda kugaruka mu rwego rw’imideli, nta wundi rero ni Coco Chanel, umunyamideli n’umucuruzi nyiri Brand ya Chanel wamamaye mu Isi y’imideli ariko wakomatanyije aka kazi ke no kuba intasi y’Abanazi nk’uko tugiye kubigarukaho muri iyi nkuru igaruka ku mateka ye dukesha Biography.com.
Mu myaka itari myinshi ishize nibwo inyandiko z’ibanga za guverinoma y’u Bufaransa zashyize ahagaragara akandi kazi Coco Chanel yakoraga rwihishwa kadafite aho gahuriye n’akazi yari azwiho ko guhanga imideri itandukanye, aho hamenyekanye ko yanakoreraga urwego rw’ubutasi bwa gisirikare bw’Abanazi mu gihe cy’Intambara ya II y’Isi.
Chanel yakuriye mu bukene ariko yazamutse mu ntera mu ntangiriro z’Intambara ya Kabiri y’Isi Yose
Chanel yavukiye mu bukene mu 1883 ahitwa Saumur, Maine-et-Loire,mu Bufaransa yitwa Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, yoherezwa mu kigo cy’imfubyi cy’ababikira afite imyaka 12, Chanel yavuye mu bihe bigoye by’intangiriro z’ubuzima bwe atangira kwerekana icyerekezo mu kumenya imyambaro ibereye abagore ahagana mu ntambara ya Mbere y’Isi.
Ibi byatumye abasha kwegera abantu bakomeye mu Isi y’imideri muri icyo gihe nka Pablo Picasso na Serge Diaghilev, aza kuba inshuti ya Winston Churchill wabaye Minisitiri w’Intebe w’u Bwongereza ndetse aba inshoreke ya Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor, Duke wa Westminster.
Kuba Chanel yari afite umwanya ukomeye kandi aziranye n’abantu bakomeye byamufashaga kurushaho gufata mu biganza ubuzima bwe mu gihe gikomeye, ubwo ingabo za Adolf Hitler zatangiye kwinjira mu bihugu by’abaturanyi mu mpera za 1930.
Chanel yaje gucudika n’umusirikare mukuru w’Umudage.
Abanazi bamaze kwigarurira Paris mu 1940, Chanel yacuditse na Hans Günther von Dincklage, wari umusirikare mukuru mu Rwego rushinzwe ubutasi bwa gisirikare rw’u Budage ruzwi nka “Abwehr”.
Urukundo rwabo rwafashije Chanel kurushaho kuba mu buzima bwiza muri Hotel Ritz muri Paris, yakoreragamo ibiro bikuru by’Abadage, akomeza kuguma ashinze imizi muri societe yo hejuru, nayo yari yaracengewe n’abasirikare bakuru b’Abadage.
Umubano wa Chanel na Dincklage wanamwemereye gukemura ibibazo by’ingenzi byihariye. Icyari kimuhangayikishije cyane ni uko yari akeneye kureba uko mwishywa we André Palasse, wari ufungiye mu Budage mu 1940 yarekurwa.
Hari kandi inyungu z’ubucuruzi bwe: Kuva mu 1924, igihe umuryango w’Abayahudi wa Wertheimer wari ushyigikiye itangizwa ry’umurongo wo gucururizamo umubavu we kugira ngo haboneke inyungu nyinshi ku mpande zombi, uyu muhanga mu bijyanye n’imideli yashakaga kuganira ku bintu mu buryo bwiza.
Nyuma rero y’aho hasohotse amategeko ya “Aryanisation” yahatiraga Abayahudi kureka ubucuruzi bwabo, Chanel we yaboneyeho kwigarurira ishami ry’ubucuruzi bwe.
Chanel yabaye umukozi wa Abwehr nka Agent F-7124 mu 1941
Dincklage yaje kwereka umukunzi we mugenzi we wari umusirikare mukuru muri Abwehr (Ubutasi bwa gisirikare bw’Abanazi) witwa Louis de Vaufreland, wasezeranyije Chanel kumufasha gufunguza mwishywa we ariko akemera gukorera uru rwego.
Igihe kimwe mu 1941, nibwo Chanel yanditswe nka Agent F-7124, ahabwa izina azajya akoresha cyangwa code name ya “Westminster”.
Yahawe inshingano zo kujya akusanya “amakuru ya politiki” avuye muri bagenzi be i Madrid, Chanel yagiye muri uyu mujyi wo muri Espagne amezi make hagati mu 1941 ari kumwe na Vaufreland, yitwaje ko akora ubucuruzi.
Nk’uko igitabo cya Hal Vaughn cyitwa “Sleeping with the Enemy” (Kuryamana n’umwanzi) kibivuga, hari inyandiko zerekana ko yasangiye n’umudipolomate w’Umwongereza, Brian Wallace, aho baganiriye ku buzima muri Paris yari yarigaruriwe n’inzangano Abafaransa n’Abadage bari bafitanye.
Ntihavugwa niba imikoranire ya Chanel i Madrid yarimuye urushinge mu buryo ubwo aribwo bwose, ariko bigaragara ko amakuru yahakuye yashimishije abayobozi ba Abwehr bigatuma mwishywa we arekurwa.
Icyakora, icyifuzo cye cyo kugaruza inyungu z’umubavu we nticyagenze neza kuko yamenye ko umuryango wa Wertheimers wimuriye ubuyobozi bw’isosiyete ku Mufaransa utari Umuyahudi witwa Félix Amiot mbere yo guhungira muri Amerika.
Yavumbuwe ko ari intasi y’u Budage mu 1944
Igihe kimwe hagati y’impera za 1943 no mu ntangiriro za 1944, ibintu bitangiye guhindukirana u Budage, Chanel yahawe ubundi butumwa na Gen. Walter Schellenberg w’Igisirikare cy’Abanazi bwiswe “Operation Modellhut” cyangwa “Ingofero y’Umunyamideli”, aho yagombaga gukoresha umubano we bwite na Churchill, icyo gihe wari Minisitiri w’Intebe w’u Bwongereza, kugira ngo atangaze ko abayobozi bakuru b’Abanazi bashakaga guhagarika kumena amaraso.
Chanel yateguye irekurwa rya Vera Lombardi, wari inshuti yari ahuriyeho na Churchill, asohorwa muri gereza yo mu Butaliyani. Bagiye i Madrid hamwe na Dincklage, aho Lombardi yategetswe guha ibaruwa Chanel yari yandikiwe Churchill kuri Ambasade y’u Bwongereza.
Icyakora, umugambi bateguraga waje kwangirika ubwo Lombardi yavagamo Chanel na bagenzi be akavuga ko ari intasi z’u Budage. Lombardi yasubijwe mu buroko, ariko Chanel ashobora gusubira i Paris amahoro.
Chanel yabashije gucika ibihano ndetse asibanganya ibimenyetso byose by’ibikorwa yakoranye na Abwehr
Muri Kanama 1944, amezi make nyuma y’ibyabereye i Madrid, ingabo z’Abafaransa zongeye kwigarurira Paris ziyambuye u Budage. Kubera ko Chanel yari azwiho kuba “icyitso cy’Abadage,” yajyanywe guhatwa ibibazo imbere ya Komite yari ibishinzwe ariko arekurwa bidatinze ahungira mu Busuwisi.
Intambara imaze kurangira, Chanel yagaragaye mu rukiko rwo mu Bufaransa nyuma y’ubuhamya bw’abasirikare b’Abadage bari barafashwe bamushinje gukorana n’ubutasi bwabo. Chanel ariko yabashije kubyikuramo nyuma yo kwemeza ko Vaufreland yari yamwijeje gufungura mwishywa we wari ufunzwe ariko ahakana ko hari imikoranire ihambaye bagiranye.
Nk’uko kandi igitabo “Sleeping with the Enemy” kibyemeza, Chanel yabashije gusibanganya ibimenyetso by’ibyo yakoze, aho byashobokaga. Chanel amaze kumenya ko Gen. Schellenberg wari urwaye yateganyaga gusohora igitabo cye, Chanel yishyuye amafaranga yo kumuvuza kandi yita ku muryango we maze igitabo yasohoye ntihagaragaramo izina rya Chanel n’uruhare rwe nk’uwari umukozi wa Abwehr.
Muri rusange, Chanel ntiyigeze yihanganira ikintu icyo ari cyo cyose cyagaragaza imikoranire ye n’Abanazi mu gihe cy’intambara . Yagarutse yemye mu Isi y’Imideli mu 1954, abifashijwemo na wa muryango wa ba Wertheimer yahanganye na wo bapfa inyungu imyaka myinshi, kandi abaho imyaka nk’icyamamare, mbere y’urupfu rwe apfiriye muri Hôtel Ritz mu 1971.
